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Some vendors prefer to call the NC-version "opener", because it opens (opposed to a shutter) the circuit. PLEASE NOTE: Most office chair castors have 11mm-shafts, but some have 10mm-shafts. Get your generic vacuum cleaner filter fabric, a compass, scissors and a ruler. You can just ignore those details in the photos In the end they will disappear and we mount the updated handle. To do so, use two small boards as guides to simulate the walls that will surround the. I'll provide more info about which length is necessary for your motor in the coming steps, (8x) M5 washers, fender style (larger outside diameter). small chisel (8mm straight blade or smaller), drillpress (a proper one works better than that in the picture), drills: mm = 2; 5; 8; 11; 20; 30; 40 (If you have no 40mm-drill, you can do that one with the jigsaw), 3D-printer (preferably assembled, and not still boxed like in the picture), linseed oil (or your preferred wood-finish / wax / paint). Refer to the picture to make sure you arranged them correctly. This requires some effort. To find such a module online, try keywords like 2000W, dimmer, power / voltage regulator, speed control, PWM, as in the picture. All print-parts for Tenok can be printed on simple filament-printers like the Prusa i3 MK3S that has been used throughout the development of Tenok. If not: Find some heat-resistant (at least 90C) glue for this step. Now pick up the piece we prepared in the previous step, carefully place it in the motor chamber and press it flat to the wall we just put glue on. I am by no means a professional at sewing, but making a drawstring-bag is luckily one of the easisest things you can make and is often recommended for absolute beginners. While the box dries you can already make it some "feet.". This step is especially important when you used coniferous wood like me as it can leak resin when it gets warm and you do not want resin to ooze into your motor, when the vacuum cleaner gets a little warmer. ###. Pull the cord arount the two cord-pins (PP04) on the front hatch. You can cheat by using PP1001, PP1005 and PP1007 as templates again. corners with a pencil as shown in the pictures. phone, GPS etc. The rounder you make them, the more comfortable the handle will be in your hand later on. For drilling into the side surfaces it's helpful to put up some sort of guide, to align the board to it like I did in the photo, After drilling the boards are ready for assembly. When you made it this far, I guess you are already excited to put the whole thing together. Tip 2: When you remove the bottom of the hole punch you can see more easily where you are punching. Rechargeable Battery Operated Suction Cup and mounting system. Make sure that all the motor-holders are screwed to about the same position, so the motor sits in the middle of the box. PLEASE NOTE: Before you attach the cord-pins you might want to skip to steps 202-204 and drill the holes for the handle-holders (PP10) first. You can check if the ends are planar by putting something flat and rigid on them: If you see gaps you should grab a file and make work the ends planar. Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" to the front hatch with a screw and washer each. Step 38: Assemble the Electronics Compartment. You need 18mm-thick boards that are big enough, so you can cut out the rectangular pieces you need (see coming steps for sizes). Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" with a screw and washer each. Place the INLET-board on the table with the gluey sides pointing towards the LEFT and RIGHT boards. If you have no possibility to cut the wood yourself, buy it cut to size according to the technical drawing I provide later. (If you wonder why the piece in the picture looks broader than 20mm, that's because it is in fact broader. Now you need to find the hidden screw-holes under the foil and poke them with a screwdriver. LEFT / RIGHT / INLET Flip the boards upside down sideways. Step 23: Mark 40mm-holes & Draw a 143mm-circle. Give Feedback Terms of Use Wind the rope around the cord-pin (PP04) on top of the box. In the motor chamber, grab the cord that comes out of the central wall and attach one of it's two wires to the heat-sensor-switch that we mounted earlier. If you happen to find one, feel free to go ahead and design an adaptor I'll add that version to the 3D-printer-files then. And again repeat the previous step with the last uncovered wall. The given length does not include the head. Step 187: Secure the M8-nuts with 4x PP1004. You can use pliers to tighten the nut on the shaft. Slide it in with this side first and it will work. In the next steps we will make the pieces one by one. To make it even clearer, I added the hose-size-range to each file-name like this: PP02-d38-PETG_2020-02-02_tenok_Hose-adapter_double-spiral_37-38mm. BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE / LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a vertical line per board. Now cut out the circular filter you traced on the micro-filter-fabric. PP20 only fits one way: When you look closely at the picture you can see that it has a small recess on one side. The most common power-switch inside vacuum cleaners looks like the black and white models in the last three pictures. Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). Next we want to drill holes into the feet, so you should let the glue dry for sveral hours. Now pull the rubber a bit apart and slide "PP07_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Inner-Part" into PP06. An interactive particle accelerator which utilizes a inductively coupled RF ion source for beam-on-target fusion research. Make sure to lay the rubber pieces on the front hatch the way I did, so each piece is fixed with a screw on both sides later. Apply heat resistant glue (see below) evenly to the rear hatch's INSIDE-surface. This makes it a bit tricky to make flat, even rubber sheets out of them. Refer to the list that is attached to this step to see, which settings are necessary for which part. We start with the micro-filter-fabric: Get out the compass a draw a 132mm-circle on it. slide (4x) "PP1004_Clip-for-M8-screws" on the M8 nuts. If you are happy with the pieces you made in the last step, make four more for the rear hatch. Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. Get the power swich and attach the scavanged cable with the single cable-shoe to one of its terminals (it does not matter which) and connect the other terminal to the power-cord's cable that also features a cable shoe. Though this tutorial might look a bit intimidating because it has so many steps, give it a second glance: Yes it is long, but that is because there are no skipped steps and every task is explained in detail. When you do not remember what goes where just go back to the step where we assembled the electronics compartment for the first time. The other terminal connects to the single wire that is already attached to the heat-sensor-switch. Now apply glue to one of the walls and press the foil against it. The filters are finished, so we can move on to the next step. FRONT INSIDE: Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. One goes in from the side and one from the back (first picture). In the first picture I circled all positions where you need to drill a 5mm-hole. LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add a vertical line per board. Double thread means that two threads are running in parallel around the hose and if you follow one of the threads with your finger around the hose, you will notice with each turn that it looks as if you have skipped a thread, but that "skipped" thread is in fact the second thread that runs in next to the one you are tracing. The guides on the outside of PP08 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark.

You can use any motor from a disposed vacuum cleaner that looks similar to those in the second picture, is 97 to 131mm long and 97 to 150mm wide. Stick the shaft of the power regulator module's potentiometer through PP14 and screw the nut back on the shaft. Initially I thought this part might be removed now and then to put new gaskets under them, so I wanted to provide an option to drill new screw holes ones the first holes are worn out. Step 102: Place the Last Aluminum Foil Piece. From above, put "PP17_Electronics-air-inlet_Grid" into it's place in the electronics compartment. The Hex-bolts should all be threaded across the whole shank: (4x) M8 hex-bolts, 60 mm long; It can be difficult to find fully threaded M8 bolts in that size. For the handle you will need to cut a 37cm long piece of rope. On the third picture I connected them to give you an idea how the circuit looks. For the next step, make sure that the boards are arranged in a way that all the INSIDE-marks and the MOTOR-mark are visible in the lower right corner like in the drawing. The guides on the outside of PP06 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark. That is why we will need small screwholes in this "H" that align with the bigger 5mm-screw-holes of the TOP-board. Screw the inner part of the outlet-filter-holder (PP1010) into the outer part that holds the filter. 1.) (T LK^2^\LUW}`:cX=$3-AP}L r.3(6ePJh"i`OWbJzTRtK 9. A while ago, I bought some interesting surplus tube display boards. PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter. The result are marks that form diagonal crosses through the center of the boards. If you can get this glue great, use it! Place the rubber cable-gasket in the already mounted outer part of the Cable-Holder (PP06) on the central wall that seperates the motor chamber from the bag chamber. Now take the 50cm-cable that we cut off the power cord earlier. Repeat this until the motor sits tight. Repeat the last two steps 7 times, so you have 8 shock absorbers in total. Now attach the power cord under the box with (2x) "PP05_Cable-Clamp" and two screws & washers each. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. Do not fold the foil to glue it around the edges you will later cut off the excess foil. Align the 4 printed parts "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" one by one with the corners of the board and trace the screw holes (two each). Hoses do not only come as single and double spiral versions, but also in different diameters, so I made 11 adaptors each for single (PP02-s30 through PP02-s50) and double (PP02-d30 through PP02-d50) helix. Here are some examples: PP02-s38 fits a single spiral (s) hose with a 38mm-diameter. Remove all the glue that has been squeezed out with a damp cloth. It will stick out on both sides but that is fine. How to tell which side is the inside, now that the marks are sanded off? Again we press the foil to the glue we have just applied. The threaded part of the tightener needs to point towards the cable holder that is mounted on the bottom of the chamber. Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. Like in the previous step, attach "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and (4x) rubber hatch-gasket-pieces to the rear hatch with 8 screws and washers. The designations might be slightly different, but as long as it is clear where the power goes in and where it goes out that's fine. Drill (16x) 5mm-holes where the lines cross. 20mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill a 20mm-hole where you made a 20mm-mark before. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. Do not touch the hatched areas around the edges yet. It requires some force to pull the needle through, so I used pliers to grab it. Mount (4x) "PP1007_Motorholder-Rear_wood-mounted-part" to the four side walls with two screws and washers each.

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