A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. In addition,vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in thecase of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specificallyeating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. A clear, oil-soluble, "cosmetically-elegant" liquid that is the most commonly usedchemical sunscreen. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels.
It is not photostable so has to be combined with ingredients that help to stabilize it. The in-vivo (made on people) testsshowed reduced wrinkles and improved firmness within two weeks by using 0.5% ofWhey Protein. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty acid Stearic Acid, that creates a partly water (the sorbitan part) and partly oil soluble (stearic part) molecule. Research shows that problem skin haslower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. It lightens hyperpigmentation (aka UVB caused sun spots) both byblocking the melanin production ofmelanocytes (the skin cells that make the pigment melanin) and by enhancingthe desquamation of melanin pigment from the upper layers of the skin. In the UK, its actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils islimonene(86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient thatmakes everything smell nice(but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Thanks. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks,Caffeine needs no introduction. Its in our products to make it smell nice. There are plenty of better options for sun protection today, but it is considered "safe as used" (and sunscreens are pretty well regulated)and it is available worldwide (can be used up to 10% inthe EU and up to 7.5% in the US).
It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
(We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. It's a very rich source of linoleic acid (66-76%), and also contains thesoothing and healing superstar fatty acid, gamma-linoleic acid. In itself, it is suitable for water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is more often used as a co-emulsifier next to other,water-loving emulsifiers. Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. It is the global gold standard of UVA protection and is the most used UVA sunscreen in the world. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). A thick, paste-like emollient ester that works as a vegetable derived lanolin alternative. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). In its wax-form, it is still well, alive and pretty popular. A plant extract that comes from wheat germ. It'sideal to solubilizesunscreen agents and fragrances. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon. Other than that, citrus peelalso contains the problematic compoundcalledfuranocoumarinthat makes themmildly phototoxic. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it inexcruciating detail. A film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. It is a special snowflake as it isthe only globally available chemical sunscreen agent that provides proper UVA protection (in the US,new generation sunscreen agents are not approved because of impossible FDA regulations). Used as skin- and hair conditioner and skin protectant. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It's readily biodegradable. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. The famous Avobenzone. There are two primary types of Chamomile, the German and the Roman. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). But you know, the proof is in the pudding. 
It can solubilize and stabilize commonly used UV-filters and has a cosmetically elegant, emollient skin feel. If that was not enough, we have one more thing to report about LA. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). An emollient plant oil loaded with nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids. It seems to be helpful with a bunch of things: atopicdermatitis, dry eyes, brittle nails, sunburn and even acne. A clear, odorless, very light emollient ester that helps to achieve light textures. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tailpart that makes them absolutelynon-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. Wikipedia saysthat avobenzone loses 36% of its UV-absorptioncapacity after just one hour of sunlight (yep, this is one of the reasons why sunscreens have to be reapplied after a few hours). The oil coming from the seeds of the nice, little, yellow-flowered plant called Evening Primrose. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. Oh, and according to Wikipedia, it even helps to stabilize famously unstable UVA-filter, Avobenzone. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin Cthreefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It can be used in concentrations ofup to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix.
Octinoxate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate;Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Wheat Germ Extract;Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bitter Orange Flower Oil, Neroli Oil;Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Roman Chamomile Flower Extract;Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, LA, omega-6 fatty acid, 18:2 cis-9,12, Form of Vitamin F, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. The essential oil coming from the rind of the grapefruit. It contains less anti-inflammatory actives than the German Chamomile. As it's an essential oil with lots of fragrant components,be careful with it if your skin is sensitive. Its the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. A must-have ultra-emollient treatment for fresher, smoother and firmer-looking skin that contains broad-spectrum SPF 25 protection, too. Overall, BP-3 is probably our least favorite sunscreen agent and we prefer sunscreens without it.
Its a solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. It contains several fragrance components including linalool (around 30%) and limonene (around 10%) and has a lovely sweet smell. There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. Not bad! What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. On the up side, sunscreens are pretty wellregulated in several parts of the world, and BP-3 is considered "safe as used" and is an allowed sunscreen agent everywhere. 
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