The specific goal of perfumer Thomas Fontaine was to create, in the words of the Lubin website, Caramel Wood Liqueur.Luckyscent provides the following notes for the perfume: Juniper berry, saffron, cognac, Lavender, ambrette, whiskey, Cedar, oudh, leather, vetiver, musk. For a history geek like myself, it was all utterly fascinating. If I sniff my arm with intense determination to find it somewhere, anywhere I tell myself that I can detect some lingering traces in tiny, random patches for another twenty minutes. Ever since the reviews, fewer and fewer were available (didnt happen to other perfumes that I paid attention to), until I found out they were sold out. Thankfully, the sillage and duration of Galaad are not enormous. Unfortunately, I far preferred the history to the new perfumes. It is the set of symbols and myths that surround the flower that Kilian wanted to recreate in this new fragrance. When in doubt, I wear this perfume. The sixscents are Mon Peche (or My Sin, 1925), Arpge (1927), Scandal (1931), Rumeur (1934), Prtexte (1937) and Crescendo (1965). Compared to the classic five Lanvin perfumes, Crescendo is a decidedly more floral one (but its still an oriental spicy perfume), and it smells more interesting to me because of the ingredients used that had never* appeared in any of the classic five perfumes hyacinth, linden blossom, marigold, honey, heliotrope, just to name a few. 19. At the very end, it turns into a very light amber with a sort of caramel, butterscotch undertone and with a hint of vanilla.
The wood notes are also a bit odd. Ill tell you one of the strange reasons why I started collecting vintage Lanvin perfumes about a year ago there were only sixto collect, which I thought was an easy thing to do and not too costly. He found something sweaty in it, along with a note of burnt plastic. Based on the notes breakdown I got from Fragrantica, the top notes such as bergamot, lemon, neroli, mandarin in my extrait are all missing. 11. Trying out the new Valentino fragrance, Valentina Assoluto Eau de Parfum Intense, became one of those things. The press release states: we now have a beautiful new mist spray (panache spray) bottle designed by the design legend Pierre Dinand. I love it!! And this is an eau de parfum, so its not as if you can try to buy it in a more concentrated, lasting form! *evil-eye*) Theres actually a Rumeur 2 Rose perfume, implying that Rumeur 1 was a commercial success to Lanvin. It is supposed to be an entirely new take on Valentinos popular Valentina perfume but, according to its creator, the well-known Olivier Cresp, it is not a flanker. And, even by the standards of mass-market fragrances, its a little boring. By Kilian fragrances are not cheap, though thankfully there are a few more affordable options in terms of travel-sizes and refill bottles. The daintiest of Chinese watercolours with sheer, minimalistic and translucent brush strokes. A very ambitious man, Lubin seemed to need more worlds to conquer and, in 1830, became the first perfume-maker to conquer the New World with perfumes that reached the banks of the Mississippi. 15. Akkad opens on my skin with sugared orange that is slightly burnt, along with patchouli and leathery, nutty labdanum over a sheer hint of powder. For another, the rapidity of the abrupt and very sharp change is quite unusual. It is rich with honey from our hives, tall cedars that shade it and resins brought to Pharaoh. The 1oz bottle is much more valuable and hard to get, but the little samples smell much better. 17. I guess theres nothing to report here its a light fresh blueberry scent. Assuming the formula and the quality of the materials used have never changed, I suggest getting the ones with black labels (only apply to Arpge, My Sin and Remuer) because they smell freshest.
Eight years later, in 1979, news broke out that Rumeur lives and has escaped from a locked basement and started a new life with long lost friends Arpge and My Sin. Love the smell! Last weekend I had dinner with a group of people that I didnt know well. leased throughout those years, but they were never a big hit.) Galaad is classified on Fragrantica as an oriental woody, and is centered on leather and myrrh. I had great hopes for Lubins trio of orientals but, alas, ultimately, none of them really blew me over. Everything about the background stories for the fragrances has been done with finesse, poetry and beauty, but the perfumes themselves left me feeling cold. Created by Delphine Thierry and Thomas Fontaine. Finely blended civet/leather/oakmoss/sandalwood is there since the beginning, but it is more noticeable after scent calms down. It wasnt huge and it was subtle, but it was most definitely there. All-in-all, its a decent modern designer scent, but what I find so interesting is not what it smells like, nor its nicebottle. She told me that she wanted a bottle of Marc Jacob Daisy?, I said. Still, if you have the chance, you may want give the perfumes a sniff if you stumble across them. * Having one hit perfume is already difficult, but having four, and each intentionally or unintentionally smelling like it complements each other to complete a perfumery four-piece medallion is ultra difficult and awesome.
The opposite therefore of the dark, mystical ambers that bring to mind the smoke of frankincense in ancient temples. Luckyscent has the full details on the scent which it describes as follows: For Kilian, Flower of Immortality is, above all, an olfactory homage to the peach blossom and its very strong symbolism in China. 10. The first version is part of a coffret set (1940s), but most of it has evaporated away, and it smelled horribly incomplete. please refer to the purchase policies, the terms of useand the privacy policy. The perfume is strong for about five minutes but then quickly drops in sillage, hovering mere inches above the skin for about forty minutes, until turning into a skin scent. JUST TODAY I am trying this out for the FIRST TIME! And with each hour that passes, I fall more in love with this! Completely. Minutes later, a very muted sort of earthiness appears, and it feels like white truffle except its buried under piles of strawberry syrup. I dont detect saffron, vetiver, or anything close to the evergreen aspects of juniper. Salvador Dalis DaliA floral blend that just clicks. The whole thing is extremely light and surprisingly sheer given the heaviness of the initial sugary notes. The overall reviews on the site seem to be quite mixed, with people expressing everything from huge love, to those less enamoured of its sweet, sweet, sweet nature and a few being bewildered by how it turns very woody. Some simply couldnt bear the heavy tuberose/patchouli combination. It is like Drambuies herbal, whisky liqueur with a definite cloying sweetness that verges on the synthetic. The press release states: Inspired by a legendary ruler, Neela Vermeire Crations new release, Ashoka, is a tribute to an emperor who was conquered by his own compassion at the moment his victory was assured. Clary sage, also known as the sacred herb, is renowned for its euphoric, harmonizing properties. *| CODE: HOPE30, https://www.philosophy.com/fresh-cream-spray-fragrance.html. Korrigan opens on my skin as caramel-infused wood with a herbaceous undertone. Nevertheless, I was intrigued. (They were. They come to harvest juniper berries and wild beechnuts. But I would highly recommend testing it out on your skin before buying it blindly. There is a note of heavy, over-ripe, lush peaches which almost immediately turns to strawberries. (I thought they were a bit more exotic for a perfume released in the 1960s, but Houbigants Quelques Fleurs in 1913 had all the flowers mentioned above. Its very pleasant for what it is, but this is a not a complex fragrance by any stretch of the imagination. However, Rumeur didnt perform as well as Lanvin thought it would, and in 1982, merely three years since its relaunch, the executives of Lanvin took Rumeur to the foggy Woods of Abandonment for a short walk and it was never found again. His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashokas journey from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the gentle embrace of its richly complex drydown. Fresh Cream is my favorite fragrance, clean not overly sweet or overpowering! I love Arpege, and I think I should also love her extended family despite some of them are only as interestingas a pumpkin. [] Only 15 minutes after application, I am holding my nose to my skin in disbelief. Dont get me wrong, Flower of Immortality is perfectly pleasant, even if its a little boring. What I find interesting is that I have witnessed a real-time social-media-influenced sales phenomenon happening in slow motion. 2), and occasionally blue labels and black plastic screw caps (~1960s, for small sizes, fig. My college classmate was very excited by this rumour, because all he cared so far in his life was getting full marks in his exams with minimal effort. Even if you are handed the original formula listing all the ingredients, I doubt one can imagine with precision what that freshly made perfume smells like because smells are not visuals. Base:Amber and Cistus-Labdanum, Vanilla and Patchouli. on Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century (Part1), on My 20 Favourite Perfumes in My Collection(2015), said that she liked light and fresh scents, You know, something that almost disappears when you are ready to leave the house. I almost spewed water from my nose. (Later I found out its not always the case.) If you are not an avid collector of vintage Lanvin perfume extraits that come in rectangle bottles, here is my unofficial guide: Extraits with silver labels and all black stoppers are the oldest (~1940s, fig.1), then comes gold labels and twist caps with gold collars (~1950s-1960s, fig. Its even lighter than Mitzah and the sillage is quite moderate. She confessed that she wasnt into perfumes; she had only a few bottles, but was very attracted to cool-looking bottles. Not for long, I started collecting vintage Arpge, and the snowball got bigger, as always. In the same vein, some freshness from the citrus notes would have helped alleviate the incredible sweetness of the scent. A few minutes in, Flower of Immortality turns predominantly into a white peach scent. you may modify or cancel your auto-delivery program by updating your account information on philosophy.com or by calling our customer care at 1-800-568-3151. modifications or cancellations can be made at any time, provided your order is not already in process. Its almost like a watery nectar in its airy, shimmery, gauzy feel. Whats going on? (Some sites say 1965, which I think is incorrect because periodicals from 1958 already mentioned of Crescendo.) May be thats Mr. Kurkjians intention. The avant-garde (from French, advance guard or vanguard, literally fore-guard) are people or works that are experimental or innovative, particularly with respect to art, culture, and politics. The base is cool leather with wood and tobacco (blond tobacco, Atlas cedar, agar oud). The opening, just the first few seconds, really, is absolutely horrendous band-aid, plasticky and chemical. 4). (Yes, actually it is.) (The above drama was imagined by me after reading a few Edward Goreybooks.). Wonderful scent. She wrote, Baseless, and gave it one star. 16.
Assuming the formula and the quality of the materials used have never changed, I suggest getting the ones with black labels (only apply to Arpge, My Sin and Remuer) because they smell freshest. In 1958, Crescendo debut. Helmut Langs Eau de Cologne I should have picked Guerlains Habit Rouge, but this smells more sophisticated to me, still, its a lemon baby powder scent that I cant get enough of.
","val":"0.5 oz. There is something odd about the smell that I really struggle to describe and cannot quite pinpoint. I was quite relieved. Whisky is one of them, in the form of a smooth, fragrant cream liqueur, accentuate by a counterpoint of oudh accord, which brings to mind dark caves where secrets lie hidden. Odder still is the unusual juxtaposition of notes. The strawberries turn even sweeter and, though they occasionally have ripe peaches as an undertone, they are the main star of the show at this stage. Its sweetness just barely falls short of strawberry jam. frequency varies. Its a different kind of sweetness than that cloying caramel, however, but I cannot explain it. (If you love labdanum, frankincense and patchouli, you really must try Mitzah!)
lettering and twist caps with gold collars (1970s-80s, fig. It's a very clean fresh scent with just a touch of sweet. The press release shared by Luckyscent adds to the beauty of the story and describes its notes as follows: A heart of myrrh is topped with spices that bring out refreshing head notes (cardamom), and sustained by aromatic base notes (rosemary, cypress). ","val":"4 oz. This scent is one of my favorites! The most amazing smelling perfume.
That was the goal for Akkad. Here are some of my favorite perfumes in my collection (as of 2015), in no particular order. Valentina Assoluto is barely floral and has little to no earthy truffle, fresh citrus, or pungent oakmoss. 18. The base with its two ambers of plant and animal origin centers on the woody richness of patchouli, sweetened with a sensual vanilla. Notes:fig leaves, leather, white and pink lotus, mimosa, fig milk, osmanthus, rose, water hyacinth, vetiver, styrax, incense, sandalwood, myrrh, tonka bean, and fir balsam. And Im genuinely saddened by that. Seconds later, there is a fleeting touch of black currant (or cassis) with a touch of tart juiciness but it doesnt last very long. Much stronger is the patchouli and an undertone of vanilla.
The opening has an unmistakable aldehyde note, immediately follows by two distinct scent accords of equal strength: 1) creamy soft white florals (narcissus, iris) and sandalwood and sweet tonka, and 2) a rich chypre base (patchouli, oak moss) with leather, civet, woodnotes. Something about it is truly bewildering and, again, I cannot find the words to describe exactly why. Wish they made perfume because it doesnt last long on me even when I layer. Fig is also one of my favourite fruits and trees. Perhaps there is an intentional inverse relationship between the Immortal in the name, and the life-span of this scent? (and does he over-price his perfumes? But Ashoka shines and shines brightly like a bright star, even unto this day. I dont smell oudh or agarwood the way some did on Luckyscent, so much as white, soft woods that are peppered and yet, incredibly sweetened at the same time. Its fresh, sweet and sunny and suddenly theres a grey cloud of liquorice coming out from nowhere and turned the scent semi-masculine and almost noire. It is almost like a cat has jumped on your lap but decides to leave, but one its claws is hooked to the knitting of your brand-new sweater the cat is struggling, your expensive sweater is being destroyed in front of your eyes, and you dont want to break its paw trying to get that stupid claw off the sweater. Diptyques Philosykos the best fig perfume IMO. Caramel Wood pretty much nails the description of this disconcerting, cloying and quite perplexing fragrance. My only bottle of Crescendo is almost 50 years old, the aldehyde note is mostly gone, and with typical mid/base notes such as carnation, iris, incense, oakmoss, sandalwood and spices trying to run the show. Le Labos Iris 39Green iris soaked up by a piece of bread. Very ironic. Good job, guys! Lucas of Chemist in the Bottlewas also not a fan of Galaad. The magnetism of a precious white flower bouquet, touched by delicate vanilla. Look, I LOVE fragrances, and Ive tried and purchased manyyyy. Delphine Thierry, who created Galaad, invites us to a tranquil morning ride in the mountains of the Middle East, when the scents of myrrh bushes blend with cypress resins and the woody fragrance of cedars. In Sanskrit, his name,aoka, means without sorrow. His importance was such that even H.G. I Love it!! Its beautiful and fresh and new and old. The perfume was created by Calice Becker and the full list of its notes, as compiled from both Fragrantica and LuckyScent, is as follows: White peach, carrot seeds, blackcurrant bud, freesia, iris, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and white musk. faced the world that was about to turn 80s with a new and modest, sleek, glossy black packaging. I cant remember those names. Then I asked her what kind of scent did she like and heres the interesting part shesaid that she liked light and fresh scents, You know, something that almost disappears when you are ready to leave the house. I almost spewed water from my nose.
3) and finally black labels, gold lettering and twist caps with gold collars (1970s-80s, fig. It opened with cardamom and honeyed myrrh with a very animalic, dirty, nutty, sweaty leather feel. The new opening, and the extrait itself is now all about leather. I tried Galaad twice to be sure and, the second time, it was even more rank on me with a skanky, fecund undertone that evoked unwashed private parts. Akkad is not as rich or complex at Mitzah, and it lacks the latters quiet undertone of roses and spices, but it is a definite kissing cousin. Its more baseless than baseless, its negative baseless, so I guess that makes it positive. Lanvin had had other perfumes released throughout those years, but they were never a big hit.) This blossom, whose pink petals are unveiled only in the middle of the winter, is believed to have the power to bewitch the human soul and to make it immortal. Or maybe It was a ghost!!! Longevity is its main problem though. (I obviously dont listen to my own advice.). Rumour, cost me $29 for 100ml. 8. Mmhm not bad at all. Estee Lauders Youth DewSmells like an incense temple in Hong Kong to me. If only the perfume smelled that way. Free shipping
. There is smoky cedar which appears and which slowly starts to muscle the strawberries to the side. But Galaad no, I really wouldnt recommend it. Oriza Legrands Relique dAmourIt transports me to a different place of a different time. (Theres no label on the bottle.) Le Labos Gaiac 10When I smell this scent, I feel like my brain is being taken out of my head and get a cold river rinsing. Got it because I love Lanvins Arpege and saw it in a discount bin. I dont detect any iris at all in the perfume. Wells wrote about him in A Short History of the World: In the history of the world there have been thousands of kings and emperors who called themselves Their Highnesses, Their Majesties, Their Exalted Majesties, and so on. One time I tried to return a full bottle of perfume (in an opaque bottle), and the salesman shook the bottle to gauge how much was left. There are subtle elements of jasmine, but like the patchouli and vanilla of the opening minutes, its merely flickering at the outside edges. Wait so.. Msg & data rates may apply. But if you like extraordinarily sweet perfumes with a suddenly dry twist, if you prefer sugared skin scents, or if you loved the original, then you may want to give this one a try. ..properly, I find anyhow. 7. Who knows, you may find Korrigans gourmand take on woods and leather to be interesting. The description on the little manufacturers sample that I bought states as follows: The alluring fruitness of a sensual smeggia peach enhanced with white Alba truffle. Once Napoleon fell, the seemingly wily, pragmatic Lubin managed to curry favour with the new royal dynasty by dedicating his fragrances to the Bourbon queen, Marie-Amlie. Flower of Immortality was composed as the memory of the utopian paradise, where the fragrance of peach blossoms brings a promise of hospitality and immortality. Seconds later, there is a dry undertone of some vaguely abstract, amorphous chypre element, but it is extremely faint. ), but they were not leaving my skin. Created by Andre Fraysse, Lanvin Prtexte debut in 1937, had a good running of 25 years, and was discontinued in 1963. Some may say Im.. obsessed. Yes, that dude. The big wave crests that Lanvin wanted Crescendo to make turned out to be ripples in a quiet pond, and in 1969, Lanvin discontinued it. Copahu balm is said to be a very sweet, balsamic resin and, here, it shares some characteristics with labdanum. They gave Molecules a three star review, but Molecules was well known for having just one ingredient in the formula ISO E Super. Nice scent, just not my favorite. When the stopper suddenly popped out from the bottle, a very little bit of perfume spilled on my hands and I could smell the stunning aroma. Enjoy your contemporary perfumes, ok? In addition to the new perfume, Neela Vermeire is also offering the fantastic Mohur from her existing India series in a new, higher concentration form.
But, on my skin, none of those things happened on both occasions that I tested the perfume. 9. "}]},{"id":"skutype","name":"sku type","vals":[{"id":"coty","val":"coty"}]},{"id":"size_type","name":"size_type","vals":[{"id":"travel","val":"travel"},{"id":"standard","val":"standard"},{"id":"full","val":"full"}]}]},"pricing":{"showStandardPrice":false,"isPromoPrice":false,"standard":0,"formattedStandard":"N/A","sale":0,"formattedSale":"N/A","salePriceMoney":{},"standardPriceMoney":{},"quantities":[]},"images":{"large":[],"small":[]},"error":{"message":"java.lang.NumberFormatException: null","fileName":"[Template:product/productjson:${ProductUtils.getProductJson(pdict.Product, pdict).replace(/\\\\">/g, '">').replace(/]*>/g,\"\")}]","lineNumber":1,"name":"SystemError","stack":"\tat app_phil_core/cartridge/scripts/product/ProductUtils.js:271 (anonymous)\n\tat app_phil_core/cartridge/scripts/product/ProductUtils.js:63 (anonymous)\n\tat app_phil_core/cartridge/scripts/product/ProductUtils.js:323 (anonymous)\n\tat [Template:product/productjson:${ProductUtils.getProductJson(pdict.Product, pdict).replace(/\\\\">/g, '">').replace(/]*>/g,\"\")}]:1\n","javaException":{},"javaName":"NumberFormatException","javaFullName":"java.lang.NumberFormatException","javaMessage":null,"rhinoException":{}}}, {"csrf_token_name":"csrf_token","csrf_token_value":"nRCo0jsOLNXR-e46mD7LRWk8Oi_FFM_Lu7w7DiiEgcnnKRJWP6nOycb8PMcKS2ANQ40Yen4MS_RfyQRPg0ZdYs17_-d0_gzcFmRUyBziUmKOg7NNrOIcEI0dw8PsNUhaoCraLJvopvvHLtNBu9dbtQ7Ii5va1Zr2UdQzR7NZW09gBcYhttw="}, TAG YOUR PHOTOS WITH #LOVEPHILOSOPHY AND JOIN IN ON THE FUN, Explore The Purity Made Simple Collection, Try The Award Winning Amazing Grace Eau De Toilette, By checking this checkbox, you agree to
(Some sites say 1965, which I think is incorrect because periodicals from 1958 already mentioned of Crescendo.) The true spirit of Rumeur did not live on, but its name did in 2006, Lanvin launched a completely new perfume and named it Rumeur again. Vintage perfumes, all have never stopped slow self-destructing, often are only left with middle and base notes; top notes such as citrus and aldehyde are gone, or even worse, spoiled.
Not exactly what I expected but smells nice. According to Wikipedia, Emperor Ashoka played a critical role in making Buddhism a world religion. The problem is that Akkad (like its siblings) costs $180 for a 3.4 oz/100 ml bottle, when the Dior Mitzah that I prefer costs $155 for a 4.25 oz/125 ml bottle. For me, analyzing a vintage perfume is both fun, humbling, and even humiliating. With frankincense, cypress and dried grass from Atlantis, we refine the precious balm used by the lords of the East to perfume themselves. Jean Desprezs Bal a Versailles (vintage)Legendary French perfume that fits for a cold or flaming queen, a fancy host or fancy whore, or any gentleman who isnt really gentle. During the solstice festivals, they all drink their elixirs out of leather pouches, causing bodies and souls to capsize. Valentina Assoluto was first launched in 2012 in Europe and the Middle East, but it is only now, in April 2013, being officially released in the U.S. And in fifteen minutes?! Honestly, I think its the mere power of suggestion. Acqua di Colonias MelogranoI will save some for when I become an old man, I will gain more respect when I wear it. 20. 14. But maybe I was just overwhelmed by the overall unpleasantness of the skanky, raunchy leather. Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com. It is extremely straight forward without the twists and turns, but something about the simplicity of this fragrance is extremely ANGELIC and FULFILLING! Flower of Immortality opens on my skin with the very sweetest of white peaches. "},{"id":"2 oz. I am a frequent Fragrantica website user. Pretext is a stunning, resinous, powdery, floral chypre with a strong animalic, soft leathery base. The royal courts of Europe soon followed suit, from the King of England to the Tsar of Russia. Top:Mandarin and Bergamot from Italy, essence of Clary Sage. As the scent develops, interestingly part 1) wins and becomes a soft sandalwood floral perfume.
Exactly fifteen minutes after the start, Valentina Assoluto turns dry and woody. If you like airy, sheer, minimalistic, peach nectars, you may truly enjoy the scent. Overall, I think Crescendo is one of the better extraits that Lanvin have ever produced, despite its short-lived glory. What I didnt expect was that someone bought a bottle of Avant Garde at a discounted price and reviewed it on Youtube, which causeda domino effect of other Youtube reviewers getting their own bottle and saying how good and affordable it was. Even I cant pull it off because its so womanly but that makes me love it more. The big wave crests that Lanvin wanted Crescendo to make turned out to be ripples in a quiet pond, and in 1969, Lanvin discontinued it. Akkad amber opens with an aromatic citrus head note of mandarin and bergamot, enhanced by Clary sage. 2. The notes, as compiled from Fragrantica and Nordstrom, seem to be: Key notes: bergamot, peach, white truffle, jasmine, tuberose, cedarwood, patchouli, oakmoss, Madagascar vanilla. Akkad photo from the Lubin website via MrNYStyleandTravel.com. And I didnt like it very much at all. offers, you have chosen this item to be automatically replenished at the above selected frequency, This is controlled in Ordering > Shipping Methods > RG under shipment cost. 2002. Byredos M/MinkHoney and ink that smells like sweet sun dried seafood. 20 minutes in, Im smelling basenotes as if the perfume had been applied three days ago and this is all that remains. That scary. Yes, I have perfume-consuming skin but, looking at Fragrantica, I was not the only one who had troubles with longevity. The new silver metal cap has the NVC logo on it. (to be continued). The famous Parthenon in Athens is breathtaking, but you have to realize you are just looking at the columns of all there left behind. Very personal choice: 1. They shone for a brief moment, and as quickly disappeared. Akkad had good longevity on my perfume-consuming skin, lasting just a little over 8.5 hours. But something is different in Crescendo if you pay a bit more attention to its floral part its sweeter, more tender and creamier, and a bit more uncommon and interesting. The frightening thing is that I with my perfume-consuming skin was actually luckier than one poor woman (raw umber) on Fragranticawhose entire experiencelasted just 20 minutes. Heres the moment when I realized I had accidentally stepped into aparallel universe. There are reviews on Fragrantica which may help you more, ranging from those who love its woody caramel creaminess and bought a full bottle, to those who found it extremely weird, a highly acquired taste, or a sticky, sour wood and a sweat note [A] disaster.You can also turn to Lucas from Chemist in the Bottle who liked Korrigan the most out of the trio, finding it to be like a milky vanilla toffee with an alcoholic vibe of warming cognac and whiskey combined with subtle lavender and other notes.
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