drill press into metal lathe

2022.07.31
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drill press into metal lathe

Once that chuck is screwed onto the end of that spindle, no amount of side-load will disengage it, short of shearing off the newly threaded spindle end.

But you still may be able to do some light stuff.

Id figure on making a shield or guard around for safety reasons if needed.

If there are no slots in the quill then the spindle *may not* have a Morse Taper.

If you notice the things that [Eric Strebel] is making on his improvised lathe and milling machines, they are made of soft materials, specifically PVC and Bondo.

U.S. Presidents were even almost killed and killed over Union and Mafia issues from hostile takeovers of capital and assets.

It took 5 years to find my machines. Bah!

Flying drill press chucks are scary common if you try and mill. Just the sight of a photo of an endmill mounted in a drill chuck on a drill press makes me shudder. Of course this would require you also purchase the drill press fixture, but those are only around another $30 I think.

How much machining have you done, Jim? Although, if you have a lathe large enough for chucking up and machining the MT2 end of your drilpress spindle down (to 1/2 or 3/8), then it would be wiser to chuck the mill bit in the lathe chuck and attach your material to the cross-slide to to use your lathe to mill with. All of the above comments ring true.

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:-|) The vacuum ideas are great and Eric does produce easy to follow videos. Since the problem is the solely friction fit of a taper mount, a (kind of) solution is to figure out a way to mechanically retain the taper in the spindle, such as a taper pin, large set screws or something else mechanical. In this regard, youll PROBABLY notice things going awry before things really go bad and get unsafe, but you never know.

Wont be fancy but something that is safe and functional. Its a little ironic that the first four words of the article are: Its safe to say, Maybe he just forgot to follow that with just not to DO., vinito64: To many people, saying It doesnt matter if a milling machine cost $20 grand because that is a pittance compared to the cost of serious injury just in dollars alone, is tantamount to saying if you dont have $20,000 to blow on a machine, you must never make anything that requires a lathe or milling machine.. But just wow.

I got the saw that beep and be carefully this and that every time Id do anything or my Dad would even do electric work No gloves, no long sleeves, when I had long hair that had to be in a pony tail tied back in the machine shop. What they get the most out of trying this might be way more than they bargained for. Most current low end drill presses have no retention other than the taper. First is the taper on the bottom end of the arbor (or spindle) the chuck is pressed onto. Twist drills theyre not drill bits.

The ignorance of the danger here is evident from both Mr. Stobel and the author of this article.

Real machines are out there for cheap. But relying on an unmodified drill press to do turning and milling is simply dangerous and not a good idea. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies.

Also, after being a working machinist for over 2 decades I still have all eight fingers (kidding), along with everything else, and have every intention of keeping it that way. I want to modify the chuck to accept a collet. The expense and amount of room they take up is a hard sell unless youre building things on them regularly, so were often forced to improvise.

With out that you might as well do it by hand.

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The hard jaw surfaces with three small contact lines on the hard shank surface of an end mill = very poor grip.

I OBVIOUSLY was saying that once you mangle a tendon or few in hands or arms (easy to do) or lose an eye, then milling on the cheap with a Morse taper spindle becomes a regret rather than the clever idea you thought it was.

The sentence While they are typically much lighter-duty than a drill press should read While they are typically much lighter-duty IN a drill press, Thats why your a machinist and not an author ;-), Hah!

We dont suggest doing anything too heavy, but if you need to turn down something soft like a piece of plastic or wood to a certain diameter, it can do in a pinch. Do not do this unless you plan for ruined work and flying two pound chucks hitting you in the face.

Dont get me wrong, I like using things in creative and novel ways. I used to have a Big Red 12 speed Drill/Mill from Harbor Freight.

In the end, pretty much everyone it stops from doing this are the people who lack the knowledge and experience to understand the risks they are taking.

Edwin Hwu has added a new project titled Low-cost and high-speed nanoscale imaging tool. It does all the work and the drill press just turns. The 18,000rpm of my CNC router scares me. Nobody is suggesting that you try and cut steel, or even saying its a very good solution, but if youre trying to route out holes in a block or foam or something, you dont need to go out and buy a proper mill for that kind of action. Same is true for trying lathe operations in a drill press. Interesting read though.

I was always told never to do that to a drill press. They use radial figuring that the allowable axial load wont be exceeded. As mentioned, the chuck is fit to the spindle with a gradual taper which holds it in essentially with friction.

Rather desperately if you grew up in mobville youd know how deadly corporate leadership, union operations and hostile takeovers of companies can be. I may have to make a new gear or two for it.

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Dust collection system. If there is a decent solution to this safety problem please advise and I will try it as I dont care about the bearings and the chatter and the poor control.

A drill press I already have.

I would be entirely unsurprised to hear that an errant chunk of end mill or drill causes over $20k in medical charges via any number of routes chunks deep in the eye as mentioned below, medevac services because a larger chunk lacerated your throat and now youre bleeding directly into your own lungs, etc.

David Galloway wrote a comment on project log A Pencil Eraser Trick. The guy is machining plastic and wood, maybe some lightweight alu like the PC heatsink in the picture.

Guess what? Might be a project to take apart a router and rebuild on a different Z-Axis mount.

The rule DOES hold for any press with a proper bearing at the end of the quill.

Darn. Do Not put side loads on anything held by a taper. Two things cause separation of the JT or MT when attempting to mill with a drill press.

How Does The James Webb Telescope Phone Home? I used a piece of fine grit sandpaper glued to a tongue depressor to shape the wood. It is cool how you can use a drill press as a small mill.

Thanks to the comments here, I understand why the chuck fell and wont be so lazy in the future.

I honestly care not.

It was like a gunshot going off. Youre obviously not reading whats written and diving down some weird path with blinders on.

While they are typically much lighter-duty than a drill press and not specifically designed for radial loads, its also not a big deal to replace the relatively cheap worn bearings in a drill press anyway and it would take quite a lot to wear them out, so the bearing issue is almost entirely a myth.

The downcut force will also pull hard shank end mills loose from drill chuck jaws. Yeah, at one time industrial machine repair (screw machines mainly) was a thought till somehow they brain damaged my Dad along with their trolling inbreds downstate that playcate with their Roman f-up hoards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXvaZImOTbc. The run-out on this video from blown bearings is cringe worthy, and one could buy 2 mills with the number of bits he probably broke already.

But dont pretend that saying dont ever do it somehow elitist youre sounding like a college millennial. I like this one in general for replacing the chuck and other improvements for milling:

I can confirm that the repetitive side forces are almost designed to loosen a drill press chuck, even when super tight and lightly loaded. What I end up with will be as good.

The quest to do machining without actually having a machine shop is certainly not new to Hackaday. the sentence GAAAH! In fact, the torque decreases because reducing the voltage also reduces the current, which is where the torque comes from. All drilling machines are designed to take axial loads, and every drilling machine Ive ever seen had some kind of bearing designed to bear the axial load.

But for a small milling/drilling device they arent too bad and a fair bit better than a Dremel.

Unless you are using a very chunky endmill (which you totally shouldnt btw), the chuck falling out will probably break your tool, sending little sharp bits around.

You have no experience that indicates the hazard you describe is real; you are just operating on superstition and rumors. Preferably with a drill bit mounted in it. 3?/^_Xl^AQCYl[WpTdQX;?c+!!I-[.kM5h8 oqo+buqvd8]GeX(x[X6:czhD0+XkzLX+B]7c/gu#X`e*HLf@]9B/fF2X&?lH 0O,-0ta`Ql_ t,17DBXymn;A9eJ^1FE#4"A5BtsKao]lTa)ce?,`sAY}T{ndX+RM;7XPh.sjh4?,qi{OhE7|C'xL?mlz^CuGKhY%;d w36>q$ o|-)[S P#-\vq#B_v,h8P+:iK W*+^ Z *su+DAe=;a\^>ab wp@c9w] rg9|K30SJh!i>@}GWbJ*.8|?OG\P0YWka.

Although, I reckon youre better off with a milling machine.. this is pretty creative!

Reminds me of the hot water or sand PVC bending techniques also to save costs on joints and make larger radius bends.

Side loads will pop the chuck off the tapered shaft.

Issue is definitely the tapered chuck. Seriously, hackaday, employ someone who knows enough about engineering to not post stuff that will get your readership in trouble.

Downcut end mills push upwards as they cut, but can only be used for edge milling because they push the chips downward.

Plus the results will usually never be very good in comparison to doing it in a more traditional or proper method. For a couple grand you can set up a nice metal working shop with lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc. many different approaches to trying to at least somewhat increase the ability to solve an issue while not really properly solving it while also introducing a number of downsides and potential negative things at the same time.

It certainly does not mean there is no danger. So many times of late I have seen machinist related articles on youtube and hackaday and just *cringed* before even getting to reading or watching them. These can handle a lot of lateral, within the limits of a small, likely soft spindle shaft and low rigidity for the quill. Yeah, taper coming loose seems like a valid reason.

Heres a thought you could figure out a way to mount a Dremel motor (or whatever) to the quill of your drill press so you have the table and quill (the outside, up/down part of the housing of the spindle). I picked up an old Deckel KF12 for less than what I paid for the X2 and its a whole different experience.

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Its possible that some drill press chucks have retainer bolts, but none that i have messed with did. The lathe might some work in the quick change gear box. The chatter rattles my teeth long before my J2 chuck comes flying off the taper.

Thanks.

Essentially its a standard vice, but with screws that allow you to move the clamped piece in the X and Y dimensions under the drill which can already move in the Z dimension.

Actually a hand drill is almost always either fastened to its shaft with a bolt inside the jaw area or threaded on directly, so it doesnt have the Morse taper issue either, but it still has the chuck rather than collets so not ideal.

Ditch the hyperbole, and give me the benefit of your actual experience.

Yes, the chuck could fall out.

Okay, in those thirty years, how many times have you seen a chuck come off and do $20,000 worth of damage?

The KF12 isnt even a really powerful mill.

Hey!

Those $700 mills usually use a nylon gear on the main quill, so make sure there is a documented rebuild kit available prior to purchase. In general some neat ideas in this articles video.

The cheepo mini drill presses just have a rod through 2 bearings with a chuck on one end and a pulley on the other. How the cheap drill/mills get around the issues of the Morse Taper is they bore the spindle for a ~ 1/4 diameter drawbar, usually with a larger bit of threaded rod welded onto the bottom end so normal Morse Taper tool holders can be used.

But there are important differences. The CNC router weighs something like 2800lbs.

I got my Deckel KF12 for $650 Canadian. That causes the annoying feature of having to load and unload the drawbar from the bottom. maybe the chuck, being held on by nothing more then a Jacobs taper?

To tell if your drill press has a Morse Taper, extend the quill and look for a tall, narrow slot in each side. motonnerd: You dont seem to understand the point of MY comment.

And the number of examples of groups of people working together to make crap that will kill you goes way beyond your few examples. (Comment Policy).

It also used to be common to add an axis to the compound slide of lathes to do horizontal milling, but most modern equipment really is not rigid enough to safely do this anymore. Bearings are no different than the ones on my small lathe and mill.

Good article for many using soft materials.

I bored out the end of the quill housing to accept 2 bearings on the chuck end.

To get rigidity you need mass. I totally agree with you, I have been wanting to get into mechanical milling as a hobby. Dremel tools use collets and arent mounted with a Morse type taper, so neither the taper mount issue nor the lack of a collet issue would apply in that case and safety wouldnt be a problem. The critical comments are worthless to me and are comments that like those who cant swim, either learn or get out the boat.

The fact that some have done this successfully, or that theirs came loose but not completely free, means nothing.

This was some smart stuff. vinito64: oh, so now you play the Ive got way more experience than you card.

I wont laugh or exclaim I told ya because its simply not funny at all, but at least I did my part to point out a danger that isnt easy to see if you dont already know how the stuff works. Neither were really advertised.

Heck, the table seems to have more stuff in it than that stand and its half that.

Just wear safety glasses and keep your fingers away from the spinning parts & pinch points, as always.

If your not made for this job drill press doesnt have a female morse taper socket the chuck with a tail fits into, it will most likely have a jacobs jt series male mount that fits into the chuck body, both which will break free without anything to positively retain the taper tooling in/on it.

Milling and miling capable machines either have a drawbar of some description to pull the taper tooling into the socket, from above or they have *something* that wont come loose on the end of the quill (qc30 for example has a 1/4 turn capable only locking ring that grips the flange on the qc30 tooling pulling into the socket). It is only there to poke up into the cross slot in the spindle so the wedge can be used to remove the tooling. Rotation with the shaft bent will wear i out very fast and it will break. And since Im here Id like to add that since a drill press is typically not nearly as rigid as a milling machine, its more likely to start vibrating maybe a little or maybe more, and vibration will increase the chance of the tapered fit working loose. What is neat, is once you have enough tools made or available you can make your own tools. The small size also reduces the mass of everything down to pretty tiny thus reducing chance of injury even if something else went South.

Both machines were not much to look at, but under all the dirt they were both functional. Yeah, if I hawk marketplace and had $2500 to spend, and 3 phase in my shop, and could move a several thousand pound machine, Id buy an old bridgeport. I still wouldnt go milling steel, but for light jobs on wood/plastic/aluminum, Id be game with the right spindle.

CHATTER is what I need to work on. Stainless sucks.

Even yard tools have to be custom made or upgraded if used for longer term. You can feel this on a variable-speed Dremel (the newer ones, not the ancient ones that use a centrifugal speed regulator) by turning the speed down to the slowest speed, where you can easily stop the motor with your fingers. You can also find them maybe cheaper and/or closer on eBay and maybe Amazon or the like as well.

Rotate the chuck and look for a slot through the spindle. You can use a bare finger to guide the solid metal of a circular saw blade as long as you avoid the teeth, but it doesnt mean that is a good idea and the more you do these kinds of things, the better your chances of getting hurt. That will be key. In any case, I would not use a sharp tool like a turning chisel anywhere near the drill press, as, chuck separation notwithstanding, most drill chucks do not hold well against lateral loads, even if the small contact area doesnt distort the material causing it to walk.